Edelrid Jay IV Review: Jay vs Jayne IV
Research-Based Verdict for European Climbers
Edelrid’s fourth-generation all-rounder, in an O-shape and an A-shape
Comparing more than one harness? The Jay / Jayne is the sustainable pick in our harness comparison, alongside the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide 2.0, Black Diamond Solution, DMM Renegade, Petzl Corax and Arc’teryx Skaha.
Read the full comparison →| Shape | Jay: O-shape (waist and hips of a similar size) · Jayne: A-shape (waist narrower than hips) |
|---|---|
| Sizes | Jay: S–XL · Jayne: XS–XL |
| Weight | Jay: 381 g (S) to 470 g (XL) · Jayne: 365 g (XS) to 461 g (XL) |
| Gear loops | Five, plus two attachment points for ice screw clips and a chalk bag loop at the back |
| Buckles | Fully opening, self-locking Slide Block buckles on the waist belt and both leg loops |
| Waist belt | Butterfly shape with sliding padding (Edelrid’s “center fit” construction) |
| Tie-in points | Parallel, with HMPE-polyamide abrasion protection; enlarged upper tie-in point |
| Central ring | Enlarged, polyamide |
| Wear indicator | Red indicator in the load-bearing straps of the waist belt and leg loops, and in the central ring |
| Material | Polyamide |
| Certification | EN 12277 Type C · UIAA 105 |
| Sustainability | bluesign® PRODUCT · Edelrid has worked with the Fair Wear Foundation since mid-2021 · no PFC/PFAS statement on the product page |
Front view
How It Rates
Overall: 9.0 / 10
In This Review
Where to Buy the Edelrid Jay IV
Support your local climbing shop first – with two shapes to choose between, trying both on in person is worth it. If your shop doesn’t stock them, these retailers ship across Europe:
Prices shown are approximate — tap through for current pricing and stock.
Jay or Jayne? Shape and Sizing
The key question in any Edelrid Jay IV review is which shape to buy. Edelrid sells the Jay and the Jayne with the same features: the butterfly-shaped waist belt, sliding hip padding, five gear loops, three fully opening Slide Block buckles and red wear indicators. The difference is shape. Edelrid cuts the Jay as an O-shape for climbers whose waist and hips are of a similar size. The Jayne is an A-shape for a waist narrower than the hips: Edelrid makes its leg loops larger in relation to the waist belt and lengthens the leg-loop bridges slightly.
The size charts show what that means in practice. A Jay M fits a 75–95 cm waist with 52–62 cm thighs. A Jayne M fits a similar 72–92 cm waist but 55–65 cm thighs. If your thighs sit at the top of the Jay’s range when the waist fits, the Jayne is the one to try, whichever label is on the box. Measure over the layers you actually climb in. Edelrid also makes the hip belt and leg loops taller as the sizes go up.
| Size | Waist | Thigh | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 68–88 cm | 47–57 cm | 381 g |
| M | 75–95 cm | 52–62 cm | 410 g |
| L | 82–102 cm | 57–67 cm | 439 g |
| XL | 90–110 cm | 65–75 cm | 470 g |
| Size | Waist | Thigh | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 58–78 cm | 47–57 cm | 365 g |
| S | 65–85 cm | 51–61 cm | 382 g |
| M | 72–92 cm | 55–65 cm | 407 g |
| L | 79–99 cm | 59–69 cm | 431 g |
| XL | 86–106 cm | 67–77 cm | 461 g |
Jay IV vs Jay III: Don’t Buy the Wrong Generation
The previous Jay III is still sold as clearance stock, and the two are easy to confuse – the most common mistake we found while researching this Edelrid Jay IV review. The Jay III has four gear loops instead of five, comes in S–L only, and sizes smaller: its M fits a 70–90 cm waist and 50–60 cm thighs, against 75–95 cm and 52–62 cm for the Jay IV. Alpinetrek still lists an older “Edelrid Jay” on a separate page at a clearance price, so check for “IV” in the product title before you buy.
Retailer pages can mislead you too. Bergfreunde’s Edelrid size-chart page still lists the Jay with the old sizing (S 63–83 cm, M 70–90 cm, L 78–98 cm waist), so use the Jay IV and Jayne IV tables above. And Bergfreunde’s Jay IV and Jayne IV product pages list four gear loops, where Edelrid’s own description specifies five.
Edelrid Jay IV Review: Pros & Cons
Pros
- Same features in an O-shape (Jay) and an A-shape (Jayne)
- Three fully opening Slide Block buckles – adjusts over winter layers
- Sliding waist padding centres the gear loops and tie-in points
- Five gear loops, two ice-clipper attachment points and a chalk bag loop
- Red wear indicators in the load-bearing straps and central ring
- bluesign® PRODUCT
Cons
- Bulkier and heavier than lightweight harnesses, per UKC
- Small rear gear loops for large trad racks
- Leg-loop webbing can feel baggy at the front
- Not ideal for prolonged hanging belays, per UKC
- Sliding padding makes buckling up slightly fiddlier
Edelrid Jay IV Review: Final Verdict
The Jay IV and Jayne IV are very adjustable do-everything harnesses for the wall, sport crags and trad cragging, and they adjust over winter layers. They are bulkier than lightweight sport harnesses, and UKC’s testers found the small rear loops limiting with a big trad rack. Choose between the Jay and the Jayne by your waist and thigh measurements, not the men’s or women’s label.
See how it compares with the other five harnesses in our best climbing harnesses 2026 guide, or read our Mammut Ophir 3 Slide 2.0 review for another adjustable all-rounder.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the Edelrid Jay IV and Jayne IV?
Shape, not features. Edelrid makes the Jay as an O-shape for climbers whose waist and hips are of a similar size, and the Jayne as an A-shape for a waist narrower than the hips, with larger leg loops relative to the waist belt and slightly longer leg-loop bridges. Gear loops, buckles and certification are the same.
What size Edelrid Jay IV do I need?
Edelrid lists the Jay IV in S (68–88 cm waist, 47–57 cm thigh), M (75–95 cm, 52–62 cm), L (82–102 cm, 57–67 cm) and XL (90–110 cm, 65–75 cm). The Jayne IV runs from XS (58–78 cm waist) to XL (86–106 cm). Measure over the layers you climb in.
How much does the Edelrid Jay IV weigh?
Edelrid lists 381 g (S), 410 g (M), 439 g (L) and 470 g (XL) for the Jay IV, and 365 g (XS) to 461 g (XL) for the Jayne IV. UKClimbing weighed its Jay M at 392 g and Jayne XS at 354 g.
What is the difference between the Edelrid Jay IV and Jay III?
The Jay IV has five gear loops instead of four, adds an XL size and sizes larger: a Jay IV M fits a 75–95 cm waist and 52–62 cm thighs, while a Jay III M fits 70–90 cm and 50–60 cm. The Jay III is still sold as clearance stock, so check for “IV” in the product title.
What is the difference between the Edelrid Jay IV and Jay III?
The Jay IV has five gear loops instead of four, adds an XL size and sizes larger: a Jay IV M fits a 75–95 cm waist and 52–62 cm thighs, while a Jay III M fits 70–90 cm and 50–60 cm. The Jay III is still sold as clearance stock, so check for “IV” in the product title.
Is the Edelrid Jay IV good for trad climbing?
For trad cragging, yes: UKClimbing found its five gear loops hold a standard trad rack. The rear loops are small, so climbers carrying a large rack on long mountain routes may prefer a harness with more gear loops, such as the seven-loop DMM Renegade.