Mammut Crag HMS Review — Best for Belaying at Anchors
A wide-basket HMS built for anchor master points and multi-pitch belaying
Comparing more than one carabiner? This is one of five in our full HMS carabiner comparison — see how the Crag HMS stacks up against the Petzl Attache, Black Diamond RockLock, DMM Phantom HMS, and AustriAlpin Rondo.
Read the full comparison →| Weight | 80 g |
|---|---|
| Shape | HMS (Pear) — wide basket for anchor master points and multi-pitch belaying |
| Gate Type | Screwgate |
| Major Axis | 25 kN |
| Minor Axis | 10 kN |
| Gate Opening | 27 mm — among the widest in class |
| Open Gate | 6 kN |
| Dimensions | 113 mm × 75 mm — a physically large carabiner, which is the point |
| Nose | Keylock — no snagging on gear loops or bolt hangers |
| Best For | Anchor belaying · multi-pitch · Munter hitch backup · top rope |
The Mammut Crag HMS screwgate carabiner
Score Breakdown
In This Review
Where to Buy the Mammut Crag HMS
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Prices shown are approximate — tap through for current pricing and stock.
Why It’s Our Anchor-Belay Pick
We’ve had the Mammut Crag HMS on the rack for two years now, and it’s become our go-to for anchor master points specifically — there’s a meaningful difference between a standard HMS locker and one built for that job, and this sits in the latter category. The 27mm gate opening is one of the widest we’ve used, and two years in, that extra room still makes a real difference threading a thick knot quickly, tying a clove hitch in a rush, or clipping in multiple strands at a busy belay.
Durability & Design
At 80g it’s one of the heaviest carabiners we own, and that weight is doing real work — two years of rope running repeatedly through the same masterpoint hasn’t put a visible groove in it yet, which is more than we can say for lighter lockers we’ve retired sooner.
The combination of that wide gate and the sheer size of the body — 113mm by 75mm, big enough to swallow a cluttered masterpoint — is why it’s stayed our pick for pure belay-station use over the Attache, which we’d point a beginner toward instead for an all-round first locker. For anyone moving into multi-pitch trad where anchor management gets complex, two years with the Crag HMS has earned it a permanent spot on our rack.
Pros & Cons
What It Does Well
- 27mm gate opening — among the widest in class
- Large 113 × 75mm body handles multiple strands comfortably
- Keylock nose — no snagging on gear loops or hangers
- Robust construction — built for heavy anchor use
- Excellent for belaying a second or hauling from a station
- Works flawlessly with a Munter hitch as emergency backup
- Consistent quality from a Swiss manufacturer with decades of track record
Cons
- Manual screwgate only — needs discipline to check every time
- At 80g, too bulky to double as an everyday quickdraw-style carabiner — built specifically for anchor and belay-station use
- Price varies a lot by retailer — from €12.04 up to €20.00 depending on where you buy
Mammut Crag HMS Review: Final Verdict
Two years in, this is still the carabiner we reach for the moment anchor management gets complex — the wide gate and deep basket that make it overkill for everyday clipping are exactly what make it the right tool for belaying a second or hauling from a station.
If you want a lighter all-round first locker instead, our top pick for that role is the Petzl Attache, covered in our full HMS carabiner comparison.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Mammut Crag HMS good for anchor belaying?
Yes — it’s specifically what we reach for at anchor master points. The 27mm gate opening and the large 113 × 75mm body handle multiple strands and a busy belay far better than a standard HMS locker.
Is the Crag HMS a good first locking carabiner?
We’d point a beginner toward the Petzl Attache instead for an all-round first locker. The Crag HMS is purpose-built for anchor and belay-station use, where its size and weight are an advantage rather than a drawback.
Does the Mammut Crag HMS work with a Munter hitch?
Yes — it works flawlessly with a Munter hitch as an emergency backup if a belay device is ever dropped or unusable.
How durable is the Mammut Crag HMS?
Very — after two years of rope running repeatedly through the same masterpoint, we haven’t seen a visible wear groove yet, which outlasts some lighter lockers we’ve retired sooner.