Petzl Attache Review — The Most Versatile First Locker

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The Petzl Attache HMS screwgate carabiner

Why It’s Our Top Pick

GearLab put the Attache up against fourteen other locking carabiners in independent testing and ranked it their top pick, calling it “the best and most versatile locker at a reasonable price.” It’s the HMS shape that does the work: it fits every tube-style belay device, takes a Munter hitch cleanly in an emergency, and clips into bolt anchors without a fight. Its gate clearance measured at 2.6cm — the largest of any carabiner in that test — and testers called it “the carabiner we most frequently grab” across ice climbing, alpine routes, ski mountaineering, and gym use.

Design & Performance

The defining feature is the red security indicator: a bright stripe that stays visible whenever the screwgate is open or only partially closed, and disappears completely once it’s properly locked — a fast visual check for anyone still building the habit of checking their safety system. There’s one real trade-off worth knowing: the screwgate is, by testers’ account, “surprisingly easy to weld… closed,” meaning it can over-tighten and go briefly stiff to reopen if you twist too hard while locking it. The fix is simple — screw it just until it seats, not until it stops turning. The aluminium I-beam construction also “wears out quicker than some” heavier alternatives — less material at the wear points is the cost of an I-beam profile. Worth knowing too that at 58 g the Attache isn’t a lightweight by HMS standards: the DMM Phantom HMS comes in two grams lighter at 56 g, and its 21 kN major-axis rating sits below the 25 kN of several rivals. The Attache’s case rests on versatility and the security indicator, not on weight or raw numbers.

Pros & Cons

Frequently Asked Questions