Militärklettergarten Climbing Guide: The Army-Built Crag in Val di Landro
Well-bolted slabs and vertical dolomite on the road from Dobbiaco to the Tre Cime
| Location | Militärklettergarten, also called Alpini, Militare Alpini or Palestra di roccia Militare, in Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal) between Dobbiaco (Toblach) and Lago di Landro (Dürrensee), South Tyrol, Italy. theCrag pin: 46.64738, 12.22844. GoogleMap |
|---|---|
| Day/Van Parking | We left the van up the road and walked in. The tourist board confirms parking is available; UKC asks climbers to use the marked parking areas only. Google Maps |
| Climbing Style | Sport. Slabs and vertical walls. The Topo describes it as technical climbing on good edges. |
| Rock Type | Dolomite |
| Grade Range | The Topo lists 39 sport routes from 3 to 7b. theCrag lists 30, from 2a to 7b |
| Aspect & Sun | East (theCrag) or north-east to east (The Topo). In late September we had sun in the early morning, and the crag was in the shade by 2pm |
| Best Season | April to October, according to the tourist board. The Topo rates spring, summer and autumn, and at 1,400 m it stays comfortable in summer. We climbed here in late September |
| Approach | 5–10 minutes for us. The tourist board gives 7 minutes, The Topo 8. |
| Mobile Coverage | Download your topos offline before you go, though mobile network was good enough for anything really. |
| Topos | The Topo · theCrag · UKC · Not on Rockfax. No printed guidebook we could confirm covers it (see below) |
In This Guide
Where Is Militärklettergarten?
This Militärklettergarten climbing guide covers the sport crag in Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal in German), the valleythat runs south from Dobbiaco towards Lago di Landro, Misurina and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The Drei Zinnen tourist board places it on the road between kilometre markers 125 and 124. Driving down from Dobbiaco, you reach it before the main Landro crag.
The name tells you its history. According to PlanetMountain, the crag was developed by the Italian alpine military corps to train its troops, and theCrag also notes that it was developed by the military. We couldn’t find the names of the people who bolted it or the year, so we haven’t guessed.
The Topo calls it one of the best beginner crags in the valley, with a view over the whole of Val di Landro. In 2021, local mountain guide Daniel Rogger also picked it for PlanetMountain as one of the five best crags in Höhlensteintal, recommending it for beginners and families with children.
One Crag, Several Names
Every app and website uses a different name for this crag, which makes it easy to miss when you search, so this Militärklettergarten climbing guide lists every name each source uses.
| Name | Language | Used by |
|---|---|---|
| Militärklettergarten | German | theCrag, PlanetMountain, the sign at the crag |
| Alpini / Falesia Alpini | Italian | The Topo |
| Militare Alpini crag | Italian / English | PlanetMountain |
| Alpini Crag | English | UKC |
| Palestra di roccia Militare | Italian | theCrag (alternative name) |
| Climbing crag Military “Alpini” | English | Drei Zinnen tourist board |
The Rock & Climbing Style
The rock is dolomite. The Topo describes the climbing as technical, on good edges, across slabs and vertical faces. It also rates the bolting as top quality, safe and closely spaced, and PlanetMountain says the same.
The Topo strongly recommends one. This is a beginner and family crag with second pitches above the base, so wear yours while belaying as well as climbing. Best Climbing Helmets 2026: Reviews & Buying Guide
Sectors & Grades
The Topo, which we used, lists 39 sport routes from 3 to 7b, in two sectors: Sector A with 19 routes and Sector B with 20. theCrag lists fewer, 30 routes from 2a to 7b, split into a left and a right sector.
Most of the climbing sits between 5 and 6c. The Topo’s breakdown has 11 routes at 6a, the most common grade, and only four routes each at 3–4 and at 7a–7b.
| Sector | Source | Routes & character |
|---|---|---|
| Sector A | The Topo | 19 routes. The harder sector, up to 7b on slabs and vertical faces |
| Sector B | The Topo | 20 routes. Easier, slabbier climbing, ideal if you’re starting out |
| Sektor links (left) | theCrag | 18 routes |
| Sektor rechts (right) | theCrag | 12 routes on the taller wall: theCrag lists it at 60 m against 16 m for the left sector. The tourist board says multi-pitch routes are possible |
The two apps don’t use the same sector names, so check which topo you have open before you pick a route.
Recommended Routes
These are mountain guide Daniel Rogger’s picks for PlanetMountain in 2021, plus the two highest-starred lines on theCrag.
| Route | Grade | Recommended by |
|---|---|---|
| I veci della Cadore | 4 | theCrag (★★) |
| Lupo Alberto | 5b | Daniel Rogger, PlanetMountain |
| Willkommen bei 5b | 5b | Daniel Rogger, PlanetMountain |
| Alza il gomito | 5c | Daniel Rogger, PlanetMountain |
| Boreal | 6a+ | Daniel Rogger, PlanetMountain |
| Salviamocci | 6b | Daniel Rogger, PlanetMountain |
| Fungo porcino | 7b | theCrag (★★★) |
Our Days at Militärklettergarten
We spent two days here in late September. We walked to the crag and left the van up the road, and the walk in took us 5–10 minutes, with no fence to cross.
The wall had sun in the early morning and was in the shade by 2pm. Ten quickdraws and a 60 m rope were all we needed.
Guidebooks, Topos & Local Climbers
Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo
Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo (Klettergärten in Cortina / Sport Climbing in Cortina)
Authors: Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina
Publisher: Idea Montagna, 2nd edition 2021
ISBN: 979-12-80483-09-6 · Pages: 352
Price: €28, listed as sold out at Idea Montagna (October 2026)
The most locally focused printed guide for the valley. Its crag list covers Val di Landro, Lago di Landro, Landro Classica, Franchi, Geierwand, Nasswand and Val Rienza.
See it at Idea Montagna →Guido Colombetti’s 105-Crag Dolomites Guide
Dolomites Crags / Dolomiti Falesie / Dolomiten Sportklettern
Author: Guido Colombetti
Publisher: Versante Sud, 2021
Editions: three separate books, one per language
English: Dolomites Crags, ISBN 9788855470599
Italian: Dolomiti Falesie, ISBN 9788855470483
German: Dolomiten Sportklettern, ISBN 9788855470506 (552 pages)
A selection of 105 sport crags across the Dolomites, including the Upper Val Pusteria. The English edition was listed as unavailable at Versante Sud in October 2026; Versante Sud also lists a digital iClimbing edition.
See it at Versante Sud →So Which Should You Use?
| If you’re here for… | Use this |
|---|---|
| This crag, or a few days in the valley | The Topo (what we used), with theCrag as a free backup |
| Sport climbing around Cortina | Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo, if you can find a copy |
| Sport climbing across the whole Dolomites | Dolomites Crags (English) / Dolomiti Falesie / Dolomiten Sportklettern |
For how we choose between apps and printed guides, see our climbing guidebooks guide.
Digital Topos: The Topo App
We used The Topo’s Alpini/Militärklettergarten page for both days. It lists 39 routes across Sector A and Sector B, with an 8-minute approach, 1,400 m altitude and a north-east to east aspect, and descriptions in English and Italian. We explain how we combine apps and books in our climbing apps guide.
The Local Climbing Scene
The local club is Gamatzn, the association of climbers and mountaineers from the Puster Valley (Val Pusteria). Since 2013 they’ve organised the Dolorock Climbing Festival across the Höhlensteintal crags, and PlanetMountain’s festival map includes Militärklettergarten. See dolorock.com for future dates.
We couldn’t confirm who maintains or re-bolts the routes today, so we haven’t named anyone.
When to Go
According to The Topo, the crag sits at 1,400 m, so summer temperatures stay comfortable, and spring and autumn are excellent too. Both sectors go into the shade after midday, The Topo says.
That matched what we found in late September: sun in the early morning, and shade by 2pm. Bring a warm layer for the afternoon.
Getting There & Approach
From Dobbiaco, take the SS51 south towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Drei Zinnen tourist board places the crag between kilometre markers 125 and 124. Day parking: Google Maps
The walk in took us 5–10 minutes, and there was no fence to cross. Easy wide path which requires no hassle and is flat. Follow the forest path over the river after about 200 m, then turn left up the obvious paths once the crag is in sight. The Drei Zinnen tourist board also says the crag can be reached by public transport, with timetables on sii.bz.it.
What to Bring
Helmet: The Topo strongly recommends one. Rope: a 60 m rope was fine for us. Our best climbing ropes guide covers what we use. Quickdraws: we used 10. Also: a warm layer for when the crag goes into the shade.
Van Life, Where to Stay & Rest Days
Day Parking
We walked to the crag and left the van parked up the road (Google Maps). Use the marked parking areas only.
Where We Slept
We slept at a Park4Night spot right in front of the crag, a different one from our Landro spot. According to PlanetMountain, the Val di Landro crags sit inside the Tre Cime – Dolomiti di Braies nature park, where camping and fires are forbidden, so check recent Park4Night reviews before you settle in and take all your rubbish away.
Water refill: we used the same roadside tap as on our Landro trip. Here it is on Google Maps. The pressure is strong, so your tank fills fast.
Rest Days
Rest days here are easy. We spent one afternoon cycling along the valley and had a blast. The scenery is stunning the whole way, and Lago di Landro and Lago di Dobbiaco are both right on the road. There are bike paths everywhere, including the well-known downhill route from Dobbiaco to Lienz in Austria.
On another day we hiked up Monte Piana using Komoot, and it was one of the highlights of the trip. Komoot is what we use to plan all our hikes, so download the route offline before you set off. The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are just round the corner too, via Misurina at the southern end of the valley.
If you’re travelling with kids, the valley also has plenty of campsites, playgrounds and parks with Alpine wildlife.
Where to Stay — Dobbiaco & Around
Not everyone arrives with a bed in the back. Dobbiaco, at the northern end of the valley, is the nearest town with hotels, apartments and campsites. The map below shows live prices for your dates:
Places to Stay Nearby
Accommodation in Dobbiaco & Val di Landro
Hotels, apartments and campsites on one map. Filter by price, dates and type.
Booking through this map supports the blog at no extra cost to you.
Planning a European Climbing Trip?
Militärklettergarten is one stop on a Dolomites road trip. Our pillar guide covers the best climbing destinations across Europe, with the van logistics to match.
Best Rock Climbing Destinations in Europe →Verdict — Is Militärklettergarten Worth a Stop?
Yes, especially if you’re new to outdoor climbing or climbing with kids. It’s dolomite slabs and vertical walls, built by the army for training and closely bolted, with grades up to 7b and a few second pitches. The walk in is 5–10 minutes, the morning sun is gone by 2pm, and ten quickdraws and a 60 m rope cover it. Stronger climbers will find more at Landro down the road. Wear a helmet, and use The Topo, theCrag or UKC, because no printed guidebook we could confirm covers it. That gap is why we wrote this Militärklettergarten climbing guide.
Militärklettergarten Climbing Guide: FAQ
Where is Militärklettergarten?
Militärklettergarten is a sport crag in Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal), South Tyrol, Italy, on the road between Dobbiaco (Toblach) and Lago di Landro. The Drei Zinnen tourist board places it between kilometre markers 125 and 124 on the road south from Dobbiaco. It is also known as Alpini, Militare Alpini and Palestra di roccia Militare. It is not the Militärklettergarten in the Halltal, Austria.
How many routes are there at Militärklettergarten?
The Topo lists 39 sport routes from 3 to 7b, with 19 in Sector A and 20 in Sector B. theCrag lists 30 routes from 2a to 7b.
Is Militärklettergarten good for beginners and families?
Yes. The Topo calls it one of the best beginner crags in Val di Landro, with closely spaced bolts, a comfortable base and a short approach. PlanetMountain also recommends it for beginners and families with children. A helmet is strongly recommended.
Who bolted Militärklettergarten?
The army. PlanetMountain says it was developed by the Italian alpine military corps to train troops, and theCrag notes it was developed by the military. We could not find the names of the people who bolted it or the year.
When does Militärklettergarten get the sun?
In the early morning. In late September we found the crag in the shade by 2pm. The Topo lists it as facing north-east to east and in the shade after midday.
What gear do you need at Militärklettergarten?
We used 10 quickdraws and a 60 m rope. The Topo strongly recommends a helmet.
Can you sleep in a van near Militärklettergarten?
We slept at a Park4Night spot right in front of the crag without issues. The Val di Landro crags sit inside the Tre Cime – Dolomiti di Braies nature park, where camping is forbidden according to PlanetMountain, so check recent reviews before you stay.
Which guidebook covers Militärklettergarten?
None that we could confirm. Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo covers Val di Landro but its publisher’s crag list doesn’t name Militärklettergarten, and the crag isn’t on Rockfax. Use The Topo or theCrag.
Is this the same Militärklettergarten as the one in the Halltal, Austria?
No. This guide covers the Militärklettergarten in Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal), South Tyrol, Italy, between Dobbiaco and Lago di Landro. A separate crag with the same name is in the Halltal in Tyrol, Austria. Add Höhlensteintal, Toblach or Dolomites to your search to find this one.
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