Okertal Climbing Guide

The Studentenklippen — Student Cliffs — are a Harz institution. Named for the generations of students from Goslar and Clausthal-Zellerfeld who have been climbing here since the early 20th century, the group divides into the Eschwegefels and Studentenklippen, plus the Kaminturm (Chimney Tower).

The variety here is excellent. Classic crack lines, slab routes, and face climbs cover the full range from introductory UIAA 3 slabs up to demanding UIAA 8 lines. The Kaminturm in particular offers some of the group’s more technical routes. For climbers wanting an authentic sense of the Okertal’s history and atmosphere, the Studentenklippen deliver it.

This group combines the Vergessene Welt (Forgotten World) boulders and faces with the nearby Röhrtanz cluster. The Vergessene Welt sector has 8 routes documented on TheCrag — a small number, but the area is more extensive than its online footprint suggests. The name captures the feel perfectly: a hidden corner of the valley where you’re unlikely to encounter another party on a weekday.

Worth exploring specifically on busy weekends when the Marienwand and Studentenklippen are crowded. The approach is more involved than the main groups, but the reward is solitude and the genuine sensation of finding something off the beaten path in a valley that sees steady visitor numbers.

The Marienwand is the Okertal’s showpiece crag — the wall that appears in every photo, described by TheCrag as “probably the most popular cliff in the Okertal” due to its proximity to the road and density of easier routes. The wall has multiple aspects: the Talseite (valley side) faces east/southeast and catches morning sun; the Vorturm (fore-tower) and Vorblock offer additional lines. The overall complex includes the Zipf, Wehrfelsen, Wasserfels, Dülferklotz formations, Arena, Buddha, Atoll, Himmelsauge, Pergola, Wintergarten, and the Forellenkanzel.

The adjacent Teufelskanzel (Devil’s Pulpit) adds 14 documented routes on TheCrag — mostly UIAA 5–7, with a flat short approach, east/southeast facing, granite slabs and dihedrals. Walk is also really nice and plenty hikers around.

The Treppenstein (Staircase Rock) is one of the most route-dense crags in the valley — 27 documented routes on a single crag is one of the highest counts in the Okertal. The group includes the Treppensteinturm and the prominent Großer Treppenstein, which hosts several of the valley’s best-known crack lines.

Two classics worth singling out from local lore: the Schwiegermutterriss (Mother-in-Law Crack, UIAA 5) on the Treppensteinturm — described by guidebook author Axel Hake as “the horror of the Okertal… though honestly not that terrible these days”; and the Gelber Riss (Yellow Crack, UIAA 6+) on the Großer Treppenstein — genuinely rough and coarse granite that demands wide crack technique. Both are considered essential valley experiences at their respective grades.

The Ziegenrücken group sits high on the eastern valley side, approached from the Waldhaus car park via the narrow gravel road and then following signs to Kästehaus / Ziegenrückenweg / Ziegenrückenklippe (about 8 minutes). The group includes the main Ziegenrückenklippe, the Steinbruch (old quarry — accessible as a via ferrata as well as trad), the Ziegenrückenarena, and the Ziegenrückenturm.

This group houses some of the hardest dedicated lines in the valley. The Holzkeilriss (UIAA 7−) on the Ziegenrückenklippe is described by the local guidebook author as “elegant.” The Völkermordriss (UIAA 8/8+) on the adjacent Ziegenrückenturm is a narrow, steep finger crack — one of the most demanding trad lines in the Okertal. For intermediate climbers, the Via Fritz (UIAA 8−) is the must-do classic of the area. The quarry sector (Steinbruch) is also home to a unique mobile via ferrata — the DAV Goslar section has bolted a UIAA 3–4 route that can be rigged with fixed ropes as a practice ground.

The Scheckenkopfgruppe clusters around the Scheckenkopf summit near the southern end of the valley, accessible from the Romkerhall stop. When open (August–January), the group offers good granite variety across the mid-grades — a quieter alternative to the busier northern groups.

The critical point here: the entire Scheckenkopfgruppe is subject to closure from 1 February to 31 July every year for peregrine falcon nesting. This is not a partial closure — it covers all crags in the group. If you’re visiting in spring or early summer, plan your itinerary around this. Always verify current status on the IG Klettern Niedersachsen live list before travelling.

The Kästegruppe sits near the southern end of the valley, with parking at Romkerhall and approach via the Feigenbaumklippe trail. The group includes the classic Zieten, the evocatively named Hexenküche (Witch’s Kitchen), the Habichtsklippe, and several other formations. The approach to the Zieten involves walking past the Mooswand — a short ridge with views — and is itself a pleasant forest walk.

The Kästegruppe rewards a multi-crag day approach: the crags are spaced along a trail system that allows you to hit three or four sectors in a single day without backtracking. The Hexenküche in particular has an atmospheric setting that earns its name — a shaded overhang with the feel of a hidden forest chamber. The Zieten has a solid selection of UIAA 5–7 routes well suited to a day of varied moderate climbing.

The Rabowklippengruppe and Romker Kopf Gruppe sit closest to the Romkerhall bus stop — the valley’s southern access point. The Rabowklippe is a prominent landmark and the most notable crag in the group, though its closure for much of spring limits its accessibility. The Wasserfallfelsen sits directly adjacent to the famous Romkerhall waterfall — a genuine spectacle when the water is high — giving this group a uniquely dramatic setting that’s unlike anywhere else in the valley.

The Romker Kopf cliffs themselves, on the opposite side from the waterfall area, add further climbing options. Together these two sub-groups make this a worthwhile half-day destination for climbers basing at Romkerhall — especially those combining a climbing day with a walk to the falls.